Dining

Sarah Quiroga has managed a robust business for 23 years in a shopping center off N.C. 55, despite only opening for weekday lunch. Sarah’s Empanadas, featuring multiple versions of the delicacy in the style of Sarah’s native Bolivia, is a hit with the RTP crowd, who jam the small restaurant every time it opens its doors. “I have customers that have been coming since I opened,” she says. “That’s the reason I’m still here.”

A slice of Brooklyn

Jill Sergison admits to anti-chain bias. She and her husband, Pete, lived for years in Brooklyn, where it was the norm to eat out at small, locally owned restaurants of all stripes.

The Audubon Park resident hasn’t been to the Southpoint area to eat – besides the occasional lunch break during a shopping trip – in three years. “We favor true ethnic food,” she says. “If you drive even a mile from that central shopping area, there are some of the best ethnic eateries in the Triangle.”

A short list of the Sergisons’ go-to spots: Akashi; Bombay Grille; Thai Lanna; Papa Mojo’s Roadhouse and Toledo Butcher Shop Mexican grocery/carnicería. The latter, she says, “is this little bodega. Half of it is a restaurant where you can order – for peanuts – this incredible Mexican food. The food is unreal and totally authentic. It’s a little gem.”

When the Sergisons are out with their kids, Andrew, 5, and Campbell, 2, they often head to Papa Mojo’s in Greenwood Commons. Before the zydeco cranks up at this award-winning Cajun restaurant owned by chef/musician Mel Melton, it’s one of the most family-friendly spots around, Jill says.

“I think it’s the best restaurant in the area to take children,” she says. “They’ve always been incredible to our kids.”

Thinking outside the box

“A lot of chains lose some of their quality as they expand, no question,” Becca concedes. “There are some definite exceptions here, and a huge exception is Rockfish Seafood Grill. Michael Hayek, the general manager, runs a group called ‘SnobFree Wine.’ He brings in local beers from Fullsteam, LoneRider, Triangle Brewing Co. and has local Thursday pint nights. They recently did a gluten-free wine dinner. You just don’t think wine dinner and chain restaurants.”

In a later interview, Hayek said, “There are multiple reasons why I like to work with the local breweries,” he says. “The most important reason is it’s just a good product. And there’s such a passionate craft beer audience in the area that it also makes good business sense.”

Becca says Southpoint doesn’t just offer run-of-the-mill chains.

“It’s hard to complain against Cheesecake Factory cheesecake if you need a calorie overload,” Becca says. “And the more ardent foodies would say that Ruth’s Chris probably has Angus Barn beat. There’s nothing wrong with convenience, especially convenience with character.” DM

For the rest of the article, and to get more restaurant recommendations from Becca and Durham Mag Editor Matt Dees, get your copy of the October 2011 issue by calling 919-933-1551.